TRAVEL -:

 FINDING SOUL IN RISHIKESH, INDIA

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Experiencing an Ashram in Rishikesh, Uttarakhand.

Where to Stay in Rishikesh.

Staying in an Ashram in Rishikesh.

My Rishikesh Ashram Experience.

Finding Soul. (And lots of Chai…)

Tips for Finding an Ashram in Rishikesh.

Experiencing an Ashram in Rishikesh, Uttarakhand.

In hindsight, it seems only fitting that the final stop on my Indian journey (this time at least) was Rishikesh.

I’ve come to realise that part of what draws me back to India is that it is a country full of – and place for – seekers. If India is the land of seekers, Rishikesh is the beating heart and soul of India. Rishikesh is also the Yoga capital of the world.

I mean there’s even a train running between Haridwar (gateway to Rishikesh) and Delhi called the Yoga Express. I don’t recommend you take it though: it takes 4 hours longer than the Shatabdi express trains to plough the same route. Want to do train travel like a pro in India? You need this guide.

What visitors mean by “Rishikesh” is the area of Laxman Jhula and Tapovan, a few miles north of Rishikesh town itself. Two bridges span the vibrantly emerald Ganges that runs between the cliffs here: the Laxman Jhula Bridge and the Ram Jhula Bridge.

Where to Stay in Rishikesh.

I’d decided to spend 10 days in Rishikesh towards the end of my travels in India in February this year. Unusually for me, I had little in the way of a plan. I’d searched for ashrams and yoga retreats for hours and become overwhelmed by options. So I abandoned planning completely and just booked my first night at a guesthouse on the Tapovan side of Rishikesh.

Click here for places to stay in Rishikesh

If you like a bit of peace and quiet and have travelled to Uttarakhand in search of space to reflect, I highly recommend staying in Tapovan – or further out – rather than in Laxman Jhula, which can get a little noisy. As for finding things to do in Rishikesh – from my experience, here, things will generally find you. Taking a quiet stroll to soak up the Ganges air, will inevitably lead you into conversations with strangers, music on ghats by the river and more. For the action driven – Rishikesh offers white water rafting and hiking opportunities a-plenty.

For my first few days in Rishikesh, I happily wandered the town, relaxed in cafes with with river views and caught up on blogging.

Staying in an Ashram in Rishikesh.

It was a short stay this time, of only a week. Ashrams in India vary widely. Many ashrams have different stay requirements (minimum/maximum lengths of stay). Ashrams also have wildly differing styles and schedules. Some are focused on yoga and include several hours a day of asana yoga classes; others more on meditation; others have a more relaxed schedule.

I’d been on an ayurveda retreat a few years previously which involved getting up at 5am most mornings. I’d also been on a Vipassana meditation course in the UK which was a 4am wakeup. At Aurovalley the 6am meditation seemed like a leisurely lie-in by comparison.

My Rishikesh Ashram Experience.

The Ashram had a distinctly relaxed vibe when I attended, but the energy of the place was profound, deep and transformational. I normally find it challenging (at best) to meditate for more than a few minutes; in the Ashram’s meditation hall I fell into a trance not one but several times. Once I came out of a mediation so deep to find that everyone else had left the hall without me so much as noticing. And no I wasn’t asleep ;-).

One of my favourite moments was sitting on the rooftop of the Ashram’s world-temple building and watching the sunset over surrounding forest.

Finding Soul. (And lots of Chai…)

I fell in love with Rishikesh.

Partly I fell in love with the place: the mountains, the rushing river, the warm sun against the crisp winter air. After the bustle of the desert cities of Rajasthan, Rishikesh felt like a haven of peace.

The air is cleaner, the sun is purer, and people seem relaxed. In Rishikesh I am sure there is the occasional less-than-authentic sadhu, but during my 10 days there I experienced no hassle. Rishikesh seemed generally safe too, although if walking alone after dark do avoid isolated and un-lit areas, and keep your wits about you. 

Tips for Finding an Ashram in Rishikesh.

To reduce the number of options available to you, you can start by asking the following questions:

* How long do you want to stay for? Some Ashrams are open for shorter stays (3-7 days, others only accept those staying for longer)

*Do you want to focus on Yoga or a Yoga Teacher Training course? Some ‘Ashrams’ are more like Yoga Teacher Training Centres, while other Ashrams do not offer yoga at all – think about how much yoga (asana) you want to practise and look for Ashrams that offer this

*  Do you prefer to be surrounded by people or in a smaller Ashram?

*Are you looking for an Ashram with a rigid schedule, or do you want more time to yourself?

* Don’t forget to book well in advance – Ashrams are not usually set up for ‘walk-ins’ and many popular Ashrams get booked up.